YJ winter work

Subject: Re: YJ winter work Tue Jan 29, 2008 2:49 pm

Clutch is in and was easy to replace since I just bought a replacement Centerforce disc. thank you nester for lending me the clutch tool. Tranny is on and I replaced the top to goofy bolts with grade 8 3/8 x 16x 1 3/4" bolts, they were a direct replacement. I cleaned all the dried mud off the tranny and tcase. fixed a leak in the tcase where the speedometer gear installs and used some silicone to help seal it up better. Also I started the install of the 1" lift M.O.R.E. motor mounts. started on drivers side and removed the oil pan skid hardware(it bolts to one of the motor mount bolts) then I tried to remove the bolt from above that was closest to the frame. the bolt goes from top down through the mount, through the support for the mount and into a square nut that is pressed into the mount support. It wouldn't budge! So out came the air tools and I promptly broke the bolt in half. then the rest of the bolt was stuck in the square nut that was pressed into the mount support. It took some motivation from a modified tire iron and a BF hammer but finally came out. the other bolt came out rather easily. The engine was jacked up with a hydraulic floor jack that was resting on two cinderblocks with wood covering the holes. With the engine raised I removed the old mount with the one bolt 18mm and replaced it with the MORE mount. I used new nuts and bolts for ease of assembly. Just remember if you do this on your own to attach the new motor mount to the engine before bolting it down, it makes it a lot easier. ran out of time so the passenger side will be done another day. tranny and tcase is still supported by jackstands as I will be building a new crossmember separate from the skid plate. For now it looks like it will tuck up nicely with just small modifications to get the tummy tuck to work.

Subject: Re: YJ winter work Tue Jan 29, 2008 2:52 pm

"5. rear locker ARB line needs a new O ring at the axle. simple fix."
Not a simple fix any more. I removed the plastic tubing but couldn't remove the fitting in the housing from the copper tubing. In the process of trying to remove the copper tubing I shifted it inside and still couldn't remove it. So the axles and third member will have to come out. A couple years ago I had a similar problem and never checked the copper tubing. After it shifted then it was scraping the ring gear and wore a hole in it causing failure of the rear locker to work. This time I'll make sure to do it right.

Subject: Re: YJ winter work Thu Jan 31, 2008 7:35 pm

OK so the MORE 1" engine lift installation turned out to be a bitch. instructions said simply do the drivers side first and then the passenger side and use the same hardware. They failed to mention that the mounts are off center and it is possible to put them in backwards. Also it didn't say anything about having to take the alternator off due to the long engine mount bolt being too long to come out otherwise. also didnt mention not being able to install the passenger side without removing one of the lower engine side mount bolts. I had the drivers side mount in backwards which was easy to do. there is a threaded nut in the frame side of the mount and the MORE mount could only go on one way....one way wihtout drilling out the threaded nut and installing a new nut/bolt combo. I had those mounts on/off several times before I finally got the motor centered where it belongs. Finally it is done though. Do not believe the instructions! It is done now and the exhaust is on and I'm ready to build a new tranny mount and flat belly skid. I will gain about 2" over the stock skid when it is done.

Subject: Re: YJ winter work Thu Jan 31, 2008 10:11 pm

Yeah I think I'm going to order the mounts to do when the Trans and T-case are out so there is only the motor to have to mess with shifting. 2" gain is going to make you almost able to get the belly completely flat.
_________________
2008 ADA run - Trail Master (all questions welcome)

94YJ locker/spool, lifted 37" MTR's lots of cool stuff (Trail rig)
00WJ open/open, lifted 31" MTR's (curbcrawler)
84 Toyota Pickup open/welded, 33's solid front axle and rusted frame
07 FORD E350 SD (TOW VAN)

KARNAGE MOTORSPORTS INC.[b]

Subject: Re: YJ winter work Sat Feb 02, 2008 1:54 pm

tranny support and belly pan support design.

The side rails will be 1" steel to drop the assembly down. just like the skyjacker tranny drop bars. the internal framework will be to add strength and serve as a support to weld the tranny mount to. they are angled due to limitations in space, have to go around the atlas case. the plate in the middle will be welded between the support rails at the height that is needed. this will allow room for the bolts to hang down but not below the height of the belly skid that will be mounted to the bottom of the frame. The supports in the middle will be latched to the side rails by sliding it up into a support (shown at the bottom of the figure with bolts going in from the sides. this will allow removal of the entire middle framework to remove the tranny when needed. the rails on the side that attach to the frame will be welded on for strength. I will be able to remove the belly pan with the 6 original bolts without dropping the tranny support. it is a lot of excess metal in this design but the whole assembly will be no more than 1 1/4" below the frame and allow a flat belly design even with the massive Atlas tcase.

Subject: Re: YJ winter work Sat Feb 02, 2008 3:15 pm

good looking plan. Can't wait to see the out come.

Subject: Re: YJ winter work Sat Feb 02, 2008 7:26 pm

5. rear locker ARB line needs a new O ring at the axle. simple fix.

Ok so I tried to remove the fittings and replace the o ring but couldn't get the fittings apart from the tubing. Out came the axles again and I pulled the third member. Main reason is I moved the copper tubing while struggling with it and more likely than not the tubing will rub the ring gear. Sure enough upon disassembly i found the tubing against the ring gear. would have been bad to run it with it on there. I cut the copper tubing near the fitting and was able to muscle it apart after that and was able to get the fittings apart. I found that the o ring was destroyed and the copper tubing was torqued into an hourglass shape from the last time I installed it. The tube at the narrow part was half its normal diameter. Now with that part cut out I reassembled the fittings and copper tubing. tested it while the third member was out and now it works fine. Put everything back together again and it still works fine and I have peace of mind that the copper tubing isn't going to get a hole worn through it from the ring gear.
Air hose from my Craftsman compressor was leaking again. seems to be a common problem right around the brass grommet near the end. I cut that off and used some gasket maker and a hose clamp to fix it. No more leaky hose.
Also cut a cardboard template for the rear of the power steering pump. The PSC pump bracket in front is thin and already bent. By placing one in the rear I can take some of the strain off the front one.

Subject: Re: YJ winter work Sat Feb 02, 2008 7:32 pm

Updated list:

1. 9" currie rear axle tube is leaking out the drivers side again.
- I took it apart and used lots of gasket maker. If it leaks again its going to full circle for repair and replacement of the seal.

2. Thump in drivetrain and clutch not working properly. I'm going to replace the clutch and while doing so I'll check for other sources of the thump.
- Clutch has been replaced but still needs bled. Best I can figure the thump was from the driveshafts being seized up front and rear. I'm going to put my other shafts on and keep these as spares.

3. going to install the MORE motor lift, tuck the drivetrain up into the body a little better. There is a lot more room there since installing the 2" body lift. Also going to replace the belly pan with a piece of ballistic steel courtesy of Dave Leasure. I'll trace the old pan onto the steel and cut it out. the atlas may need a relief cut out and then I'll build a skid for that.
- MORE motor lift is done. ordering metal for the belly pan and tranny mount frame.

4. Front shocks bottom out and they are at risk for breakage, also the crank pully can contact the steering hardware at full compression. going to install bump stops in the front to solve that.

5. rear locker ARB line needs a new O ring at the axle. simple fix.
- repairs done

6. soft top is half destroyed at mounting locations. gonna have to fix that so I can wheel in all weather.

7. ARB switches are going to be rewired so that I can engage and disengage the front and rear lockers independently.

8. Rear suspension winch will be installed. I'm going to just run the one from the front back through some strategically placed pulleys to make it work. eventually I may install a rear one independent from the front if needed. I will have to see how it functions on the trail.
- not gonna do this, waste of time.

9. Need to install a 5 point racing harness.
- low priority until cage is upgraded

10. Cage work!
- Nesters work party.

Subject: Re: YJ winter work Sun Feb 03, 2008 10:39 pm

Subject: Re: YJ winter work Sat Feb 09, 2008 11:52 pm

Got a lot done with the tummy tuck today.

I cut the two rail pieces first and then cut the cross pieces and tranny mount bars afterwards. I bought a digital angle finder which was quite a bit helpful.

Can anyone see the mistake I made in the picture above? I built the frame around the jack stand and then couldn't get the frame off for welding without finding another way to jack up the transfer case.

Then I cut a template for the tranny mounts out of cardboard and located the holes in the right spots.

The plasma cutter came in real handy cutting the ballistic steel.

Then I bolted the plate to the tranny mounts and tack welded the plate in place. I removed the entire assembly for finish welding and then cut the belly pan to match the frame. I left a lip about 3" long in front of the belly pan to hopefully make mounting the oil pan skid easier. Tomorrow I have to get some 75w90 for the transmission and will fill that before painting and assembling the belly pan. I also cut a template for the power steering brace used that to cut out a support with the plasma cutter. pics to come tomorrow for that.

Subject: Re: YJ winter work Sun Feb 10, 2008 12:12 pm

looking good. It might just be the angle of the pics but it looks like the front drive shaft is going to hit the sub frame.

Subject: Re: YJ winter work Sun Feb 10, 2008 2:10 pm

Subject: Re: YJ winter work Mon Feb 11, 2008 8:53 am

Eric you can borrow the belly pan any time.
Finished the belly pan installation and installed the front driveshaft. Its going to be close but I think it will clear. I'll check clearances on thursday. Still have to bleed the clutch, install the shifter and install the rear driveshaft.
I decided to cut reliefs in the skid steel to allow the frame to be installed wihtout the belly pan. Also finished the new bracket for the PSC steering pump. now it has front and rear brackets and no bend.

Subject: Re: YJ winter work Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:17 am

Subject: Re: YJ winter work Mon Feb 11, 2008 8:01 pm

yeah that back plate should take care of any issue with the PSC pump. I like the design of the of the belly pan. That thing looks to be able to take hell for years to come.
_________________
2008 ADA run - Trail Master (all questions welcome)

94YJ locker/spool, lifted 37" MTR's lots of cool stuff (Trail rig)
00WJ open/open, lifted 31" MTR's (curbcrawler)
84 Toyota Pickup open/welded, 33's solid front axle and rusted frame
07 FORD E350 SD (TOW VAN)

KARNAGE MOTORSPORTS INC.[b]