slopy Rubicon T-case

My TJ started making some noise when I get on/off the gas so I crawled underneath to check it out... The drive shafts both have about a quarter inch of rotational play when they enter the transfer case. The effect on the road is a slight chunk sound any time the forces change on the power train.

So my question - this may be a stretched chain - is it something that is worth trying to fix, or am I just as well off to drive it till it breaks?

Anyone sitting on an NP231 they don't want/need?

there is a guy on the Marylandjeepclub forum that will be selling his 231 wiht fixed yoke assembly shortly. his name is jon gilbart.
http://www.marylandjeepclub.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=13437

You will lose the 4to1 that you have in the rubicon case if you go to a 231 unless you get the tera low 4to1.

check all ujoints. I doubt it is the transfer case. the ring and pinion would be the limiting factor in the amout of rotational play. unless you disconnected it at the pinion. Its hard for me to really imagine how much a quarter inch of rotational play is but some play there is normal.

quarter inch isn't much. I'd agree and say check the u joints and if they are ok then just drive it. if it breaks then fix it.

thanks for the info, it seems to be holding up all right. I have checked the u-joints - there is a tiny bit of slack in them, but nothing too serious.

Thinking more to it, the axle gearing does seem like the most likely culprit. Might be a good time to regear the axles.

I would change all the fluids in the jeep. After wheeling all year and going to all the comp events. Its time to give that jeep a once over.

I did just that - it is not the gold jeep though - this time it is the blue rubicon that is wanting attention.

Gold jeep is on blocks right now too - installing staun beadlocks, a PS pump cooler and AEV sliders for next years comp series. Mostly done, but the beadlocks are off the rig right now.

when I opened up the rear diff last week there was no metal, and the ring and pinion looked good. All fluids looked good. was left thinking that it was the t-case after that.

Right now the gold jeep is competing with a Porsche 924 I picked up for the racetrack - it is in pieces in one bay - with the timing belt off and the cam shaft seal leaking... gold jeep is holding the other bay, and in spite of having 4 cars I am down to Vanessa's Pathfinder and the blue rubicon on the road...

I am looking forward to some of those snow days too - get some things put back together.

1/4 INCH OF ROTATIONAL PLAY AT THE YOKE IS NORMAL, THE T/CASE ALSO SHOULD HAVE A LITTLE PLAY IN IT. IF YOU HOLD THE FRONT OUTPUT STILL, AND THERE IS PLAY WHEN YOU TURN THE REAR THAT WOULD BE THE SIGHN THAT THE CHAIN IS WORN. I HAVE REBIULT ALOT OF CASES,AND USUALY IF THE FLUID IS FULL, AND REGULARLY CHANGED THE CHAIN WILL NOT FAIL(STRECH). CHECK TO MAKE SURE ALL OF YOUR SUSPENSION COMPONENTS ARE TIGHT, USUALY A LITTLE SLACK IN A HIEM JOINT WILL GIVE THE SYMPTOM YOU ARE DESCRIBEING.
GOOD LUCK

Have not cracked the case open to look, but pulled to front drive shaft off tonight. Will run it that way for a couple of days and see if that makes a difference in the way things sound.

Thanks Dan for the pointers - once I get the DS back on I will double check rotating the shafts against one another at the same time.

When I hold the front diff yoke, I can move it back and forth and make a metal chunking sound that sounds like it is coming from the drivers side front axle tube... no visible movement in the u-joint, but I would not expect that.

I will respond tomorrow on the outcome of running without the DS.

lt dan, can you elaborate on the comment about slack in the hiem joint? What / where is the hiem joint you reference...

Thanks,
Greg