Project "Mud Bandit" dedicated mud bogger

Looks good

Looks like its ready to tear shit up!!

You just got page 26 !!!!!!!

Calling all Joes pick it up

SPP YJ wrote:

sounds to me that the solenoid is not pushing the gear out all the way. when the gear is pushed out there is a electrical contact that makes up and puts power from the big term on starter to motor if that does not make up in solenoid the starter tries to spin from the small start wire and that dint work so well like trying to run a winch off of speaker wire.

whats the fix for that?

I wood check and double check ALL connections thats kinda what it sounds like to me.If that not work take some plugs out and see what happens. And it looks great

Ok so this big dummy hooked the ground wire from the batter to the frame and used a grounding strap from the engine to the frame WITHOUT cleaning off the paint. DUH! Friend in the local shop started there and he said "it started right up and runs like a champ".

ITS OK IT HAPPENS TO ALL OF US EVERY NOW AND THEN. BUT THE GOOD THING ABOUT FRIENDS IS WE NEVER FORGET IT.

nice

I cant remeber, is your first mud bog this weekend or next? Me and Mandy want to come down and watch.

mud bog is this sunday the 30th if all goes together well. I have all day thursday to work on it and all day saturday. Also planned is a test run saturday at a neighbors farm. if it does not run well then I won't be running and I'll post up here so you guys don't come up for nothing. Its a long way to go to watch a 7 second run.

Bill
Do you have any idea what time you would be running if you are in the event?

I have a work event at the boss' house that afternoon, but I gotta see this CJ fly!

I will be down to watch.

connordanny wrote:

Bill
Do you have any idea what time you would be running if you are in the event?

I have a work event at the boss' house that afternoon, but I gotta see this CJ fly!

the drawing order and order of classes will be determined at the 8:30 a.m. meeting so i won't have any idea til then. I will have the run videotaped for those that cannot attend.

hows she run now that its alive

I only checked to see that it would crank over and did not start it. I've been at work all day and just about to go home at 8pm. I'll find out tomorrow.

ITS TOMORROW !!!

SPP YJ wrote:

ITS TOMORROW !!!

Yep, soon as the kids are off to school I'll be off to the garage to try and crack this baby over. I have all day today to finish the job so that saturday i can go for a test ride and work out any problems i find. I know the carb needs adjusted, it needed it before i started tearing it down but it shook so violently because of all the booty fab that we couldn't get it to run correctly (it did idle well though). Updates will be posted as i progress.


Replace starter/solenoid DONE

install bump stops
secure brake lines and bleed brakes
plug NP231 sending unit hole and fill with fluid
adjust steering and install cotter pins
fix rear u joint (misaligned on pin)
fill differentials, transfer case with fluids)
adjust fan thermostat control
paint all bare metal and body(gotta get our decal on there)

ITS ALIVE!!!!!! Tried cranking the jeep over for about half hour fiddling with it and it wouldn't start. took it up to Dave Leasure (Twisted Willys) to have him check it out. Hell of a nice guy! He said bring it up and he will take a look at it. SO I took it up and drug it off the trailer with the 4-wheeler and into the shop it went. He asked what it was doing and i told him it tries to start but then doesn't. he said "try it" so i turned the key and that sum bitch started right up! Dave said "that'll be $50". We did find that it was missing and tracked down some bad plug wires and replaced them with new ones angled at 45 degrees(after a 45 minute scramble around town to find them). then it was still missing so he pulled one plug wire at a time to find the "dead cyllinder" and listened for a change in the motor idle. when he pulled one that didn't change the idle we knew which spark plug was bad. Replaced that and then adjusted the carburator and set the timing. found the throttle cable was too short causing it to idle high (prob about 1200 rpm) so he fixed that. Finally took it for a test run and accelerated down a back alley at full throttle about 100'. When i hit the brakes there was a lot of clanking and banging under the front end. back to the shop and found the drivers side exhaust collector was hitting the front differential yoke when the suspension compressed. Took it over to a custom pipe shop Dave recommended and they bent me a new pipe with a tighter angle in about an hour. Jeep sounds and runs great but still have work to do. My hat's off to Dave for a fantastic job he did.


plug NP231 sending unit hole and fill with fluid - DONE
adjust steering and install cotter pins- DONE
fix rear u joint (misaligned on pin) - DONE
fill differentials, transfer case with fluids)- DONE but rear is leaking and i'll have to reseal the cover. leaves a 3" puddle in about an hour.


Still left to be done:
Install ARB compressor- I don't have a rocker switch because it comes with the locker in the differential so I'll have to find a way to use a jumper wire on a toggle switch to get through this weekend.
adjust fan thermostat control
install bump stops
secure brake lines and bleed brakes
Install bell housing cover
paint all bare metal and body(gotta get our decal on there

You can use my switches for the weekend. I have the wire harness and swithes out right now anyway.

thats OK Matt. I appreciate the offer. I will check online to see if there is a simple way to hook it up to a toggle switch and if not I'll just pull one off the YJ. It's easy enough to pull out.

Install ARB compressor- DONE
adjust fan thermostat control- DONE
install bump stops - DONE
secure brake lines and bleed brakes - DONE
Install bell housing cover - DONE
paint all bare metal and body -DONE
cut fenders - DONE
install windshield - DONE
fix rear diff lead - DONE

BUT I STILL DONT HAVE BRAKES
no idea if the calipers are seized up or the brake booser is bad or if the master cyl is bad but I'm out of time. If i knew which one was the problem there are still no shops open to get a replacement.
10:00 and I'm going to bed. I'll update in the morning.

NO brakes, autol store opens at 9 and meeting was at 8:30. NOT RUNNING TODAY. Matt thats a million for all your help saturday to get ready but unfortunately it just didn't come together in time. got everything done on the list but bleeding the brakes didn't fix the problem. Pedal goes to the floor without resistance and then is very hard to push near the last 1/2 inch of travel at the floor. i have to stand on the pedal to stop when idling forward. Looks like i'll be making a shakedown run the week b4 big dogs.
Matt I owe you big time for all your help.

Bill,
A bad booster will give you a hard pedal right from the top.
Seized calipers will feel normal in most cases. Maybe a little hard towrd the top half.
Air in the lines or master cyl. can give a feeling like you are describing and so can a bad master cyl.
A m/c can leak outside, check for fluid between it and the booster. or inside, it can leak past internal seals. In that case you must eliminate the other suspects and replace it under an edjucated guess because there is no way to see that. Check for pressure at the lines attached to m/c. Both should seem to be about the same pressure. The line toward the booster should go to the front brakes. This may very well flow first. This is normal. The fact that you do have some brakeing at the bottom of the pedal tells me you have SOME rear brakes. Rear brakes on most non-abs systems dont do much until the last 1/2 or 1/4 pedal.
My 2cents says bleed,bleed,bleed. Start at the m/c and work your way toward the wheels bleeding at every connection. You'ld be surprised how often air gets trapped mid-line.
Let me know how you make out.

picked up a master and I'll replace it this evening. I'll bench bleed the MC and then bleed, bleed, bleed the brakes. Hopefully it should do the trick.

got a wilwood proportioning valve for the rear brakes and a "T" for the front brakes. still need a 7/16 to 3/8 line adaptor for the "T" and then bleed. Also took apart the front axle down to the housing to replace the inner axle seal on the passenger side. Parts store gave me the wrong part. anyone have a part number for the inner axle seal of a 79 ford D60?

never mind, found it. 11769

I can't ever imagine having that much "know how" about a jeep. Can take an axle off and have learned a few other things watching you all on the trails but I'll be dust before I know what you guys know.