suspention design

So as some of you guys know I have been working on an axle swap for a little while. Since I had to change up the brackets and where they mounted I figured I would redesign the suspension a little. Well I started with a Clayton kit with radius arm front and rear 4 link with triangulated uppers. I was unhappy with how the front would raise under hard acceleration and climbing hills. So I went with three link with pan hard in the front and changed up the arm lengths and mounts in the rear to get my antisqat to an acceptable level.
Well I got the rear to 80% AS. Would of like it a little higher but it might work out in the end, if not I'll change it later. a lot of people say AS should be between 50 and 110%. then adjust to handle the way you want it.
In the front, here is where I get a little confused. Is it better to have the AS higher or lower, in the front, to keep it from "jacking?" Would the front be the opposite from the rear? I made it so I have a little of adjustment so I can get from 30-87% AS. I know that the numbers aren't really "real world" but I just wanted to get it set close while I have it in the garage and easy to get to.

Well now that I have board some of you, here are some pics. There is not much in the middle pics. First the tear down.





front d44hp. The track bar is about an inch shorter then the drag link but they are perfectly paralell, bump steer should not be a problem.



14 bolt rear with disc brakes shaved alittle







new booster from dodge 2500 and next to it is an adjustable prop-valve for rear

Wow,
Thats a lot of work, Matt.
Can't wait to see how it does on the trails!

it looks great. your jeep is going to be a real monster. will it still be streetable when your done?

Well Matt looks to me like you have been very busy under the jeep. Looks good man I like it. How much did you move the rear back? It could be the picture but it looks like your going to need to do some cutting. Whats the wheel base set at now if you did? 14 bolts look sweet with the large diff and full float hubs. What size tire did you step up to? Did you do gears? Okay I will shut up sorry for asking so many questions.

yes it will still be streetable. still running sway bars, the steering and brakes are better then before, or will be. The bumpers are lower then the limit. the tire stick out the same amount as before. aside from tires everthing should handle better then before. It is stretched a little about 3". It has already been trimmed to clear but I haven't fully flexed it, so I may have to cut some more. The tires are 36s, but there is plenty of room for bigger. went with 488 gears to keep the 44 a little stronger. As of now the brakes are a little mushy and need to work on driveshafts. Once I take care of that I will be on the trails.

well I was a dumb ass and welded the brake brakets on wrong , so the bleeders weren't at the top most point in the calipers, so I couldn't get all the air out. I switch the calipers to the opposite sides. By doing that it put it high enough to get all the air out. brakes work great.

You going to be running lockers?

detroit in the rear and arb in the front. alloyUSAs in the front and long field 300m joints. I narrowed the front to 63" wms to wms by cutting down the tubes. For the rear I was able to narrow to match the front by putting dulley hubs on a single wheel rear axle.

If you find a good link on suspension design let me know. I thought there was one on Pirate but I cant find it any more. This is a good time for me to review since I will be stirring the pot here soon.