Need lift info

Well i have been shopping around for the last 6 months, but still dont know which lift i want. I am definitely open to suggestion and looking for some input on what to go with. I really like the Full Traction Lifts, but they are hard to find and i havent heard any reviews on them. Due to the lack of reviews on Full Traction lifts i have built this list.
I am debating whether to buy all of this at once, or do the lift first then the SYE

4 in. Fabtech Ultimate System with Performance Shocks
For: 2005 Jeep WRANGLER (97-06TJ) X
Part Number: FABKIT410
4 in. Ultimate Kit with Performance Shocks; 4 in. Front Coil Springs; 4 in. Rear Coil Springs;
Rear Eccentric Cams; Trac Bar Brackets; Pitman Arm; Includes Performance Shocks;
$1,276.94

NP231 SLIP YOKE ELIMINATOR KIT
For: 2005 Jeep WRANGLER (97-06TJ) X
Part Number: ADV507906
Advance Adapters Wrangler Slip Yoke Eliminator Kit, Wrangler, 1987-06 with NP231 transfer case
$269.99

CV REAR DRIVESHAFT NP231
For: 2005 Jeep WRANGLER (97-06TJ) X
Part Number: R/ERE1860245
Rubicon Express CV Rear Driveshaft with NP231 Transfer Case with Slip Yoke Eliminator,
TJ Unlimited, 2004-05 with 3.5-6" lift 24.5" long
$359.99

Suggestions anyone?

First off, take a moment to think about what you want to do with your Jeep (Mud, Rocks, Look Pretty etc.) and that will help us determine what lift is best for your needs. Also, let us know what size tires you plan on running as this will help too. On that topic, did you luck out and get the optional Dana 44 rear in your TJ or is it the 35? Give me some more details and I will be gald to get you pointed in the right direction (I am also POSITIVE I can point you to better prices).

Thanks SLOPAR, First reply has exactly what i am looking for.
I have the Dana 35 rear end, and im already running 33x12.50's without the lift, (and you would be surprised how well it fits). I want to be able to handle rocks and mud and still be able to drive to work. The prices are from 4 wheel parts, but if you know of cheaper i am all ears.

here is a SYE and Driveshaft combo for $475:
http://www.northridge4x4.com/products.php?cat=41&nav=39

Glad I could be of help, now here are my two cents. Since you are already running 33's that is a great start, now DO NOT go any bigger on your Dana 35 unless you want to become proficient at changing c-clipped axle shafts in the rocks or mud. I suggest you look into the RE "Superflex" 3.5" lift. It is very flexy, rides nice and will hold up. You will have no trouble stuffing 33s with this lift and in time if you want to upgrade to 35s you only need to add a 1.25" BL with MML. As far as the lift, SYE and DS, do yourself a huge favor and check out Northridge4x4 (as the other fella suggested), RedRock4x4 and Bob Supplee (he only has a phone number no web site and call him last becuase 9 times out of 10 he WILL beat everyone else (405) 799-8977). I have delt with Bob on many things and he is a great guy. With that lift, and a SYE there is one more thing that you can add that will be the best $250.00 mod you can make........a "lunch-box" locker for the front Dana 30. I ran just like that (Aussie in the front, open Dana 35 in the rear, 33s) for three years and it was a blast running high blues and low blacks. Lunchboxing the front will make a HUGE difference on the trail. I suggest going with the Aussie just because I know of two guys that were running Lockrites and toasted them. With that being said you _may_ run the risk of busting a front shaft but spares are cheap (I got mine with unit bearings shipped to my door for $115 for the pair) and very easy to change on the trail. Wow, your head is prob. spinning right now but IMO that is the best recipe for what you want (DD, Rocks and Mud). If you have ANY other questions please fire away and I will be glad to help in any way I can. Good luck!

My turn

Yeah I'm a fan of RE lifts as well. But if you want to take another path that could save you money and time. I suggest doing a budget boost for 2 in of lift them a 1" body lift (BL) and you will fit those 33's just right with 3 inches of lift. Most people jump right to the lift but look at it this way. Almost everyone with a wrangler has at least a 1 inch BL. It allows for you to use belly up skids later down the road and most people with 3-4 inches do it for the ablity to run 35's. The budget boost (BB) is good cause its cheap and easy to sell to newbies when you are ready to go to a new lift. Doing it this way also allows you to spend the extra money on a winch, a CB radio, skids or recovery gear. Your jeep with ride the same if you use the RE BB (old man emu and BDS give you new springs). All that and you dont need a SYE kit or the new drive shaft. The BB and BL can be installed in less than a day with no special tools. Also the front locker is a good idea but I think learning how to wheel open/open is the best way to become a good driver on the trails. I wheeled mine for a year or so before I got lockers. You have a TJ so I would suggest control arm skids too.

I agree with the economical route of the BB and BL, I just suggest the RE since it seems he is pretty set on going with higher end suspension lift. As far as the locker goes, I agree 100% about wheeling it open first. This will force you to pick better lines and truely make you appreciate the locker when you do get it. I don't know how many guys I've wheeled with that have LA Rubi's and have NO appreciation for picking lines. They are used to just driving straight over everything. My last trip to RC was my first time being locked front and rear and I can honestly say I got hung up on a few things I never should have due to my carelessness.

I agree to, when I was open on the front and had a possi-lock I manuvered more carefully, and even ran blacks well. Now with lockers front and rear, I get gutsy and take chances I should think our forst. But hey, aren't we from the shcool of hard knocks?

Thanks for all the info, I am just wondering if its worth it to buy cheap lifts first and then get the better one later, or just go ahead and get the good one the first time. I will be asking a lot more questions when i think i have what i want picked out so you guys (and girls) can show me what i forgot.

By the way, What is the deal with the dice?

Well the only thing I can add is the path i am taking. was going to do the budget but decided to go for the 4" bought the cheapy. But as it was going to go on I knew it was also my daily driver and went with the sye and cv drive. That lead to doing adjustable track bars and the like. I didnt want to chance jury rigging and having it drop off on the way to NY. I did a brain fart and forgot front sway disconnects but thats an easy add later. I debated with the body lift for a tummy tuck but that seemed to be too far down the road to do all that especially when I heard all that needs to be moved and banged. again its a daily driver and a wife and two kids budget. I figure with that and some under armor its slow enough build to learn on.

What Id do different is maybe go a 3" and 1 inch just to leave the tummy option - definately wouldnt start cheap, would go the full kit. Anything over 4 and I heard you got to brace and shim too much.

But hey its a learning curve for me - I got what I want - 33" BFG Mt on the way so its a couple inches more clearance.

pacolentz wrote:

Thanks for all the info, I am just wondering if its worth it to buy cheap lifts first and then get the better one later, or just go ahead and get the good one the first time. I will be asking a lot more questions when i think i have what i want picked out so you guys (and girls) can show me what i forgot.

By the way, What is the deal with the dice?

Well when you think about getting 3 inches of lift for right around 350 bucks if your a smart shopper. Then when you want a new lift you would have had time to save and prep your rig for doing to the larger lift right way. Also make 150 bucks off your old lift thats just my point of view. But hey if you dont go with the BB and BL route you need to make sure you get a drop pitman arm, sway bar discos, SYE kit and the CV driveshaft. Total you spend no less than 1000 bucks for 3-4 inches and or 350 for the 3 inch cheap easy starter lift. I have seen lots of people put 33's under there rig with spending less that a 1000 bucks total. But whatever you do make sure to have fun doing it.

OK, here is my 2 cents worth;

When I got into this sport i had limited cash, I rode stock for a while, bang and dinged everything, but I did have fun, then I shopped for a relative cheap set up, via the e-bay I found a lift kit for about 450 or so, I bought it, (no name brand) 4-1/2" lift kit It had the lower control arms, springs front and rear, swaybar disconnects, and pitman arm. Nothing else. Later I graduated to bigger tires, from 31's to 33's, but my friend Rich bought a new set and passed on his old 35's so I moved on that, like a kid with a candy bar. Now I am looking for 37's irocs types with strong side walls. I will not say that's my limit, every time I say that I find something else to change and go nigger. *&%$ it never ends! I also moved on a slip yoke eliminator once I broke my transfer case twice, you need to get 2 drive shafts one to use and the other for spare, along with a few driver side axles, carry 3 sets of U-joint too and the tools that apply.

Everyone will have an opinion as to what is best, but I found that a 3.5 or 4.5 lift is more than plenty for the adverage rig, then is about the tires 33's to 36's. Just my 2 cents.

if your going to do do it, do it right the first time. Save the money up instead of going cheap and having to do it a couple of times as you move up through the tire sizes. BB is always smart if your low on cash and want to wheel because you can reuse them or resale them. I have extra spacers now that would fit your jeep that I could sell you if you were interested.

I started out with a 2"BB and still have half of it. 1.25 body lift and I'm running 33's. It does OK.

It's your Jeep. Build the way you want.
My 2 cents: a big lift will make you want to try bigger obstacles and that is not gonna help you when your oil pan is split open from a rock or your diff cover gets bashed in and your ring gear saws a hole in it like a hacksaw. (yep, been there). If ya don't put any armor on, your on borrowed time from the start.

If money is a concern (I'm in the Army so it is for me), A 2"BB, 1" body lift, and longer front brake lines will clear 33s at flex (as long as you aren't running some really deep dish rims) and you won't have to do the slip yolk and drive shaft yet.

Good luck and maybe I'll see you out there sometime.

Who else has had a BB on there TJ?

I ran the RE Budget Boost for a year. I added a 1" BL later on down the road and was able to fit 33"s. That set up was fine until I added a winch up front and then the front sagged

Here's how it looked: