Waldo's Rubi ????'s

John, aka Waldo, has a rubicon and wants to run 33's so he can play with the Raiders. What does it take to run 33's on a rubi? Will the same BB from a TJ work on a rubi?

The rubi is stock and he is running a 5 speed. What else would you guys suggest to get him started? I guess I am asking where should he spend his money first and get the most benefit for the trails.


We spoke about a hand throttle. I had it on the YJ but didnt use it all the time.. I have gotten away from it now having CNC braking but do you guys run a hand throttle?

I have one in mine, and don't really use it that much. it's nice to have but I would not start there.
I have seen a stock rubi run some good stuff. the first thing I would do is protection, sliders, skids... IMHO that is where you will the best bang for the buck. After that lift and tires and a winch

Some of you might remember my friend John Myers. He started in the club with a stock Rubicon with a BB, 1" BL, Medic skid, diff guards, control arm skids. He ran voodoo with the big boys like that. 33's TSL's

Rubicons I have seen and been told that they run better with 33's. They come with 4:10's stock with and 4:1 T-case gear set. Oh yeah and they have a SYE and CV drive shaft stock. Tow hooks front and rear are also stock

The only other thing that I can think of him needing is straps, Hi-lift, D-ring, First Aid Kit, and if its stick a hand throttle cause no one has three feet and there super cheap hoaks has them for 29 bucks.

I would say protection would be the best money spent, because once its broke or bent theirs nothing you can do about it.

Are you listening to this John....

Told you the Jeep Gods will start to speak once you ask...



Great thoughts Chris and Nester.. I am sure John appreciates it...


What lift was Kyle (Beatuprubi) running to run 35's on his rubi.. He had stock control arms when you tore the one off at Rausch..

i just looked under my jeep for the first time and i was shocked at the lack of protection under there doesn't jeep realize what people do with these?

are there kits out there to protect everything or do i have to get the pieces one at a time (thats all i can find on the web so far) and thanks for the help also who makes the easiest to use quick disconnect sway bar links

I started with a JKS 1.25" body lift and a 2" BB. That will get you 33s, but your front brake lines will be too short at full flex. A while after the winch went on, the stock front springs caved in. Threw in a pair of 2" XJ springs that I got for free. They have been in for about 2.5 years now with no sag.
I would start with skids. Oil pans don't like rocks. I have a Medic belly up and engine skid. The belly up is good for almost 2.5" of clearance.
I don't have any recent pics of how it will flex right now, but here are a couple of old ones.
The first one is with the budget boost still running the stock 31s. It was at the Adams Jeep Jam in 04. I came in 8th out of everyone who got on the ramp that day.


Adams Jeep Jam 04. Look at how new and shiny it looks.

APR 06 on 33s

I can't get them to work. You may have to cut and paste.
What I am trying to get at is that you can wheel the crap out of your Jeep on 33s with a BB. I wheeled with most of the older guys on this board, ask them how it works.

Ok, mike I reset the pictures. I don't know what is going on, but you can't use the link from the forum to post. I used the one from the photbucket instead.

I don't know but from what i have heard of guys that just the skid if you run a medic skid which you need the 1.25" body lift you have covered the oil pan trans and T-case. Its pricey but you already have the sye and CV shaft and it cheaper than buying a two piece skid that is also a belly up skid. I think mike is right you get 2 inches of lift with the medic skid. Well not lift but clearance. after that all you need is a steering skid diff guards and control arm skids. If you have a friend with a source to a welder have them weld plates to the control arms to make them stronger. But the other up side to the BB is you just to keep the stock ride quality, since your not loosing your stock springs and NO its not the cheap why to lift your jeep its and economical way to lift your jeep to allow you to focus on more important things than how much lift you have. Plus the best rigs on the trails have Low center of gravity and not super high lifts. Thats why you install skids.

If you run the Medic tummy tucker, you will have to add at least a 1" body lift AND 1" motor mount lift. The tummy tuck only takes the place of the stock shovel. It's easier if you do the motor mount lift and body lift at the same time because then you won't have to drill new holes in you fan shroud. If/when you add the engine skid, it goes all the way from the harmonic balancer and bolts to the tummy tuck.
If you're gonna play in the rocks, you need an engine skid. My oil pan only holds 5.5 quarts of oil now because of rocks.
Hey Nester. What was that other guy's name who needed an engine skid that one time at Rausch? Believe his name is Rich. We pulled everything out trying to get the Turtle patched up that day.

The Devil Dog wrote:

Ok, mike I reset the pictures. I don't know what is going on, but you can't use the link from the forum to post. I used the one from the photbucket instead.

Thanks, Tico. Don't know what was going on. I was using the photobucket link, but I couldn't get it to work. Guess I'm a

treefrog wrote:

The Devil Dog wrote:

Ok, mike I reset the pictures. I don't know what is going on, but you can't use the link from the forum to post. I used the one from the photbucket instead.

Thanks, Tico. Don't know what was going on. I was using the photobucket link, but I couldn't get it to work. Guess I'm a

I don't know what happen, but I found a solution, that's what matters. Maybe a bug is filtering in or trying to. Got to get RICH to look into it. Your the second person with this issue. Good to see you chatting away again.

that was a great day. but the list doesnt stop at rich. Greg Knowls and the one and only Tico. Skids are your friends don't learn that the hard way.

waldo27 wrote:

who makes the easiest to use quick disconnect sway bar links

Currie Anti rock No disconnect needed and great flex.

where can i get those from? and can you get skid's that dont require drilling or lifting?

md4wheelin wrote:

I would say protection would be the best money spent, because once its broke or bent theirs nothing you can do about it.

I second that one first hand... BIG TIME

md4wheelin wrote:

I would say protection would be the best money spent, because once its broke or bent theirs nothing you can do about it.

I second that one first hand... BIG TIME

waldo27 wrote:

and can you get skid's that dont require drilling or lifting?

nth degree mobility makes an oil pan skid that requires no lift or drilling... but it just covers the oil pan... it bolts up to unused holes on the motor and tranny. It is in the 4wd Hardware catalog (4wd.com).

Skid Row also requires no lift or drilling (maybe to belly pan... not sure... but simple)... and it offers full coverage (engine and tranny up to belly pan)

I think warn makes a gas tank skid that requires no body lift... don't trust the stock one on a rock...

i personally am scrounging parts to run a setup similiar to Treefrog... I do not have a rubi... but it performs just as well (mine is the Rocky Mountain Edition, which copied the rubicon styling... rocker guards, wider painted fenders, etc but not the gearing, sye or lockers).

The body lift is something cheap and extremely easy to put on in your driveway in about an hour if you have help. I too run the JKS 1.25" lift...

I have a teraflex belly pan to go on (similiar to nth tummy tuck or jeep medic belly up). I run a kilby tank skid (body lift required). Just need to install an sye kit first

Don't forget the small ones... control arm skids (see my post on them and be warned), steering box skid, diff skids, and replace the diamond rockers with something that will rock... not just look good (offers little protection if you actually hit it... I have them... and they are bent up underneath...

Down the line... fender guards, etc...

You can never have tooooo much armor...

I've put plenty of good dents and scratches in these skids over the last 2 yrs:

Skid row engine skid:


Warn Diff Skid:




A to Z rockers:


Warn Steering box skid:


You can see the skid row gas tank skid in this shot:
This skid doesn't give you any more clearance over stock, but you don't have to drop the tank to install it either

waldo27 wrote:

where can i get those from? and can you get skid's that dont require drilling or lifting?

http://currieenterprises.com/cestore/antirock.aspx