Suspension redesign etc

1. Stretch and drop:
Plan: stretch rear 5", drop jeep 3-4".
Comp cut. new rear control arms and mounts(purchased), Johnny joints(purchased) will be installed to replace the faulty Rock Crawler joints, new/rebuild driveshaft. I will move the lower links from under the axle to in front of the axle with the new joints and mounts to provide better clearance. the rear coilover shocks will be moved from behind the axle to on top of the axle for clearance. I plan on running a piece of 2x2 steel tubing on top of the frame rails from one side to teh other to mount the coilovers higher and provide a mount for the body. the stock crossmember will have to be removed as it is in the way. Rear upper links may just need adjusted since they are currently adjusted as short as they go. If too short I will have to fab new upper links. To lower the front I will have to fab a new upper shock mount or modify the exhisting on. I am considering using tubing to make new ones but haven't decided what will work best.

2. Tummy tuck:
Plan: install 1" lift MORE motor mounts.(Adventurous 4x4)
raise tranny/transfer case to allow flat (or nearly flat) belly pan.
fab belly pan and reinforce without loosing clearance.
set pinion angles. I picked up a piece of structural steel from Twisted willys (thanks Dave).

3. Front axle winch:
Plan: Bullydog 3k was purchased. It will be installed on the passenger framerail over the axle. Cable will run through a pulley on the center of the axle and up to the drivers side frame rail. I bought a pulley from Tractor supply.


The plan is to finish the stretch and drop and install the front axle winch prior to sept Big Dogs.

Wow, ill that's a lot of work in such a short period of time, but you are good at what you do. Good luck with your project, sound interesting, looking forward to seeing it completed.

If you could post pics as you go that would be great. And good luck with it - sounds like a metric boatload of work

It's a lot of work and some areas concern me. Once I get in the "zone" I get a lot done. might have to pull a couple all nighters but I do my best work at night. In the front I have to relocate the track bar at the axle and there is very little room as it is. also in the front it will be a challenge with the new shock mounts, the only way I can go is 3" up. In the rear I have to fab the new body mounts becasue the rear crossmember is in the way and must be cut out. I'm gonna try to mount some 2x2 steel on top of the frame rails and all the way across to mount the upper end of the coilovers to so it will provide the right drop. the axle is moving back 5" so the lower location is going to move forward from it's current location (about 5" behind the axle) to on top of the axle. Hopefully that will not influence how much spring rate I need to get them to work with the suspension properly. I do have some adjustablilty in the coilovers. By the way Tico I don't believe projects are ever done, just a constant evolution.

Hey Bill did you order control arms or are you going to make your own? Take lots of pics.

I was surfin the web checking out jeep junk and saw this site. You said you wanted to stretch the rear, but you have done well keeping to tub stock and clean (not from dirt but from being cut up or mass body damage. These corners allow for a 4 inch stretch and the fitting of up to 37's (I might get me a set) but work with TJ fender flares to keep a clean streetlegal look.

http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=CNR-4003

I will be making my own links and I will take pics as I go. I started today by removing the drivers side mounting hardware on the axle for the coilover and lower control arm. didn't have much time as I'm splittin time redoing the bathroom as well.
This is the Current/old configuration, sticks way below the axle and the lower control arm angle lends to unloading on uphill climbs.


Hardware was removed on the drivers side.


This is the mounting bracket for the Johnny Joints in the position I plan on welding it. By placing it in front of the axle there is more clearance and the LCA angle is not as steep.


What about the bathroom? Its coming along.
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Nice , I like the idea and I can see the gain in clearance. Thanks for the info.

I have been eyeing up those corners for awhile, but was going to hold off because I would have to make new rocker skids to fill the gap and I am thinking about going a different route with the rockers but can't do it yet.

Bill its looking good, I love looking at build pics. Are those poly permance mounts. Not sure if you still need this but here is a link that has a bunch of links on link setting up http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=402139

rockdw72 wrote:

I have been eyeing up those corners for awhile, but was going to hold off because I would have to make new rocker skids to fill the gap and I am thinking about going a different route with the rockers but can't do it yet.

Bill its looking good, I love looking at build pics. Are those poly permance mounts. Not sure if you still need this but here is a link that has a bunch of links on link setting up [url=http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=402139

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=402139[/quote[/url]]

Yes those are polyperformance mounts. First time I bought them so I'll let you know how they work out. thanks for the link.

polyperformace stuff is pretty good I am using one of their frame mount for my front upper link, the only thing I would stay away from is their poly joints.

I decided to go with Currie's Johnny Joints for there reputation and strength. The upper joints are from rock krawler and are typical heim joints. I will retain those joints when I build the new links. I printed about 150 pages from those links so I have some reading material while in Ocean City this weekend. Looks like good information but it's hard to get anyone to agree on a set of standards for what the calculations should be.

by the way, while using a plasma cutter be sure to wear long sleeves and be careful about where the sparks are flying. A well placed ember will ignite armpit hair!

yeah i have been looking in to a rear stretch for my yj but i'm going to run waggy springs due to the length and center pin off set me i need to figure out my gas tank first. i might do it front and rear with a combo of stock waggy springs and my stock ones and just freak something together. Bill its looking good any plans on working out the frame crossmember over the axle? where did you tank and skid come from?

be careful with the plasma ask ryan he says he has lit all kinds of stuff on fire with it

THe tank and skid were a package deal that came from Gen-Right, very expensive but very good quality. I cant put the cross member on top of the frame because the location the coilover will go requires the crossmember at a point where the tub actually sets down in the frame. Even with the 2" body lift the tub is still inside the frame somewhat. I will be putting a new crossmember up there but it won't be as high up as I want. I may compensate for that by triangulating the coilovers inward and towards the front a little. I will have to figure out how to make it work so the spring rate is comparable to what it is now even though they will be at an angle. they can't be moved back any or I loose some flex and there will be clearance issues with the fuel tank. I was going to place the coilover lower mount on top of the axle but without the room to mount the upper attachment higher I may have to place it behind the axle with the mounting hole about level with teh top of the axle tube. that will allow room for the large lower coil retainer to move with suspension cycling. ON the FRONT I may make some shock hoops with DOM. But that will require me to buy a tubing bender...hmmm. But then again I could then have what I need to make tube fenders and a stinger. hmmm. I'll look for a set of shock hoops that will work in the height above frame I need and if I cant find a set at a reasonable cost then I'll buy the bender and make them. Only 3 weekends left to finish it!

This is what I need and its made for 3" longer shock but I don't think it will work due to lack of clearance for the coils. even on their mounted picture it shows the shock mounted upside down.

I think I'll make my own to make sure everything fits. anyone got a tubing bender I can borrow? any recommendations on where to get a budget bender that will do what I need? No time to wait for a prebought set of mounts and find out they won't work.

Yeah those wont work unless the spring fit your stock mounts. You also need to figure for flex. Your better off to fab something up out of C chanel or bent tube.

Rear is stripped of all old hardware now. The old uppers are not long enough and need replaced. I have the 1/4 DOM and 2 threaded inserts that I had laying around. Need to order 2 more threaded inserts tomorrow. Rear driveshaft will not work and needs lengthened. Ordered the DOM and Inserts for the lower control arms early this morning. I can still work on the new crossmember while waiting for the parts. I moved the axle back into the new position and I will definitely have to do some fender trimming. I may just cut for clearance for now and later build some tube fenders of some sort with fender flares implemented.

just curious what size DOM did you go with?

Hey Bill,
How do the threaded inserts work?

I ripped the Heim Joint out of my adjustable track bar on Sunday evening. Can I chop off the boogered up threaded end of the track bar and weld a nut or one of your threaded inserts to allow the heim joint to attach to the track bar again?

ajspence26 wrote:

just curious what size DOM did you go with?

I went with .125 DOM 1.25" OD. I was torn between that and going with 1/16 thicker but I'll be using some plate steel to reinforce the hoop and may even run a bar from the top of one over to the top of the other like Blue Torch Fab does. Depends on how it turns out.

Quote :

Hey Bill,
How do the threaded inserts work?

I ripped the Heim Joint out of my adjustable track bar on Sunday evening. Can I chop off the boogered up threaded end of the track bar and weld a nut or one of your threaded inserts to allow the heim joint to attach to the track bar again?

The threaded inserts are designed to fit a certian diameter DOM tube. For example there is a threaded insert for a 1" inside diameter DOM tube that works with a 3/4 inch thread heim joint. All you do is slide the insert into the end of the DOM tubing and weld it in place. If you cut off enough of the end so the insert will slide on then it should work. they are about 1 1/2" long and after you weld it on you just screw the heim into it and hold it in place with a jam nut.

The DOM for the new upper and lower links and the threaded inserts has been ordered. ALso ordered about 24' of 1.25" .120 DOM for fabricating tube fenders for the REAR. Was out shopping today and picked up a chop saw finally and also picked up a new vice. Cant go to Tractor supply without buying something. Also found JB weld's product called Hydroweld and will have to test that out on someone elses rig later on. I'll be ordering a tubing bender tomorrow once I finalize my decision on which one. Leaning towards the JD2 model 3.

Got some more work done on the jeep today. I removed the fuel tank to modify the skid and raise it 2 1/2 inches and to move it back 1".

Stock skid pan for the fuel tank above. The mounting tab on the left will have 3" cut off to allow it to mount higher on the crossmember. the tab on the right will be cut and moved down 2 1/2 inches. the straps mount to the hole in the middle and that will have to be retained.

Out comes the plasma cutter.

cut and rewelded.

LIttle tabs welded on for fuel tank straps.
Also found that with the axle moved back 6" the axle truss will contact the lower part of the crossmember where the fuel tank used to mount.

Out comes the plasma cutter.

That will have to be reinforced so I used some 1/4 angle iron to sure it up with the welder.

Found that the crossmember prior to cutting was in the way of the mounting position of the coilover. After cutting that away there is room for me to weld in a new crossmember in front of the current crossmember but higher up for mounting the coilovers.

Above picture shows current shock location, it will be moved up over the axle and infront of the frame crossmember.

This is close to where the axle will be. Yeah I know, its time for some trimming of the body panel. Don't worry I gots a plan for that. Rear tube fenders.

front suspension winch and MORE motor mounts were delivered today.
That comes after big dogs...