Project "Mud Bandit" dedicated mud bogger

rockdw72 wrote:

damn bill you work fast. it wasn't like that a few hours ago. thanks again for the tubing and covers.

once I get the music blasting and get in a groove then I get things done. No problem with the covers and DOM. I cannot use the covers with my seats.

Next on the list:
1. have driveshafts modified to fit- dropping off on tuesday
2. order fuel cell and fuel lines. - DONE
3. buy DOM tubing for cage. - picking up on tues
4. Obtain high steer arm. - picking up from Randy on tues
5. buy racing seats. - check out seats at big dogs first.

In the mean time I can finish a few other things:

1. Finish building exhaust. -picking up welder on tues
2. install axle vents. - one is done
3. build a tranny linkage for shifting- DONE
4. build antiwrap bars for front and rear axles.
5.mount fenders, hood and windshield.
6. lots of miscelaneous stuff to fix clearances -DONE

Picked up the DOM tubing today for the cage and anti-wrap bars. Matt, I'll bring yours to big dogs. Also picked up angle iron for the fuel cell mount. I'm going to cut into the tub and drop it down onto a frame mounted pan supported by crossmembers. ALso Randy dropped off my steering arm at my work for me, THANKS RANDY. Also picked up my small welder, yep the 3200HD. Had it repaired, required a new pc board and cost $200. I'll use it for thin metal welding with gas from now on. Ready for my next day of rest with the CJ.

how much tubing did you pick up?

I took the last 200' that he said was not accounted for. Matt has claimed 100' of it and the other 100' goes into the CJ. He may have another couple pieces if it goes unclaimed.

1. have driveshafts modified to fit- DONE
2. order fuel cell and fuel lines. - DONE
3. buy DOM tubing for cage. - DONE
4. Obtain high steer arm. - DONE
5. buy racing seats. - DONE

In the mean time I can finish a few other things:

1. Finish building exhaust. -picking up welder on tues
2. install axle vents. - one is done
3. build a tranny linkage for shifting- DONE
4. build antiwrap bars for front and rear axles.
5.mount fenders, hood and windshield.
6. lots of miscelaneous stuff to fix clearances -DONE

Steering - Install high steer arm, rebuild kingpins and build tie rod.
Fuel tank and fuel lines need fitting, and secure
Axle vent rear - FIND
INSTALL - Driveshafts-23" rear CV and 38 3/4 front
exhaust-header back
repack front and rear wheel bearings seal rear shafts!
Seal front and rear differential covers
Pull oil pan and seal dipstick tube
speed sending unit
Battery from YJ
antiwrap bars Need tubing
Fill tranny and tcase with fluids
build cage
race seats to cage
Buy and Install - shocks
Secure brake lines
mount fenders and hood
Snorkel
bell housing cover
tranny and engine temp guage - mechanical
install soft top

Still need: windshield Need hinges(p.u. in westminster), engine oil tube and seal, differential housing bolt, Order DEI protect a boots designing engines.com?, Shocks, bumpstops, metal for crossmember and metal plate to finish boxing frame, rear axle vent fitting, Steering box brace(p.u. in westminster $40), Shock mounts(p.u. in westminster stock ford truck $20 new), Gear oil.

Are you going to make it by the 20th?

SPP YJ wrote:

Are you going to make it by the 20th?

Very little chance of that. I have about 2 1/2 days left to complete everything and not all is listed. Also have to reinforce the fenders of the trailer to get it up there.

For the trailer fenders we used wood or c-channel and built ramps on the inside of fenders just a little higher than fender so you drive over that part and dont touch fender.And you can make them remove for use of trailer for other things. Just a idea but im sure you have a plan its just trying to make fenders stronger sometimes turns into more than its worth.

I love that idea. Never thought of it.

Rockn93YJ wrote:

I love that idea. Never thought of it.

Actually you did. You sent me a drawing a few years ago showing me where to weld some square tubing onto mine so Von's Jeep could fit on my trailer without destroying the fenders. We ultimately used ramped 10 x 10's. Worked great but they were a little heavy to move around.

cool. Ok so working on the jeep and now I have to add getting a new front brake line to the list...they don't bend so easy.

Its funny how all that little stuff starts adding up at the end of a project

Steering - Install high steer arm, rebuild kingpins and build tie rod.
DONE. Kingpins were toast since the dumbass that sold me the axles put the kingpin cap on top of the steering arm instead of below it and then used a bunch of washers and nuts to get tension on the kingpin. Fukin dumbass. Tie rod was placed behind the axle. Since the steering arms were wallowed out I welded the hole partially closed and redrilled it and used a reamer to get the proper taper.

Fuel tank and fuel lines need fitting
DONE. All fittings are in place. I just need to shorten the holes once I get the tank in it's final position. I cut a hole in the floor to sink the tank about 6" and I''ll mount it to the frame crossmembers that I will be installing.

Axle vent rear - FIND
Can't find, do I really need one? I had that SOB and knew I'd be looking for it so I set it aside where I can find it. Still can't find that SOB anywhere.

INSTALL - Driveshafts-23" rear CV and 38 3/4 front
Rear installed, front needs smaller straps. Can't figure why the straps are different but they are and I can't drill them out for Ubolts without seriously modifying the yoke.

repack front and rear wheel bearings seal rear shafts!
ALL 4 DONE and sealed!

Seal front and rear differential covers
DONE! Found a chip of metal missing from the front passenger shaft. gonna have to order a spare cause it wont last long.

Fixed leak in thermostat housing.
FIxed crappy ass sears compressor AGAIN, this time with JBweld.

Drivers side steering arm reversed to put tie rod behind axle.


Once apart you can see all the damn washers and even a jam nut used to space the incorrectly installed kingpin/steering arm assembly.


Kingpin rebuild kit with old part really worn from improper install.


Chip on axleshaft, this one will break soon. Also severly worn kingpin.


steering arm was welded, redrilled and reamed for my TRE.


New tie rod built.


Tie rod behind axle, about 5" clearance from oil pan.


Passenger side steering arm.


From passenger side under motor clearance.


Fuel cell connected but I'm gonna sink it down.


Rear driveshaft installed.


Shot this while standing on rear bumper, you can see my sneakers. Hole is a little crookid but I fixed it. gonna sink the tank to frame height and mount to a crossmember framework.

everything is looking really good bill should be some CJ

looking good bill. With that type arm, the way it sandwiches the cap and doesn't have cone washers make sure you check the nuts before every time you take it out. I heard that since the caps are a softer metal it will flatten out and the nuts would loosen

rockdw72 wrote:

looking good bill. With that type arm, the way it sandwiches the cap and doesn't have cone washers make sure you check the nuts before every time you take it out. I heard that since the caps are a softer metal it will flatten out and the nuts would loosen

Good call. I"m pretty good about going over all the nuts and bolts after the shakedown run.

my brother jon just put the same high steer arms on his new black jeep, and he mounted the cap on top just for that reason and he put thick wall pipe cut to 3/4 inch and used them as spacers inside the top of the cap to keep the proper tension on the cone inside. he says it worked well. EVERYTHING IS LOOKING ASSUME BILL

damn bill, I wish I had your time to make things look as pretty on my jeep. just out of curiosity how much did you drive shafts run you?

md4wheelin wrote:

damn bill, I wish I had your time to make things look as pretty on my jeep. just out of curiosity how much did you drive shafts run you?

the driveshafts came with the CJ and was a spare from the YJ. I had the rear rebuilt since the double cardan joint was destroyed and had it lengthened. the front shaft i just had lengthened and I had new joints put in. cost was $250 for both to be repaired and modified.

$250 for both?! That's pretty cheap. Love the progress and I'm digging that steering setup.

were did you go to have it done?

it was a place in Frederick. Used to be called Keller Truck but now is called Fleetwood. It's Near FSK mall just south of Frederick.