Skid Plates, SYE and Rear CV What Does It All Mean?!!?!?!?

so... i am looking into skid plates...

Jeep Medic is the route I want to go... they have a nice engine/tranny combo...

BONUS: it will gain me 2 more inches ground clearance with the tranny tuck...

down side... after emailing Jerry @ Medic, he recommends a few things first...

A) 1" motor lift (Looking at M.O.R.E. Bomb proof motor mounts... replaces stocks and has built in lift... Hey Ryan/Danny... that would have meant no shroud mods on the lift... hehehe... step one... remove fan... ummmm... ok... AHHHHHHHHH.. flashbacks)

back on track...

B) SYE and Rear CV Driveshaft...

K... here is where I get lost... I started researching that one and it was all greek to me... I understand the basics principals... shortening the tcase output means extending the drive shaft, and the cv adds extra flex.

Some sites say I need a measurement centerline to centerline, is that installed, or i pull it to measure it... and flexed out, or flat ground...

others just ask for a model and year...

Where do I begin?

THe jeep medic site only recommends all this stuff if lifted more than 2.5", but after emailing them and spelling out the lift (2"/1.25" combo) Jerry kicked me back the sye answer... I would rather do it right than do it twice... especially with how much it will cost...

Treefrog.. I know you have the rubi with the medics... did you have to go through the sye/driveshaft also, or is the rubi differant?

I am thinking and Advance Adapters SYE, and have looked at Tom Woods for drive shaft...

Any suggestions?

Anyway... sorry for the thesis ... looking forward to your comments... thanks.

SYE stands for Slip Yoke Eliminator. From factory when the suspension flexes the yoke will slip in and out of the transfer case to allow movement because the driveshaft is fixed. This is a problem because if you have to much lift and the axle drops too far, the yoke will come right out of the t-case. So the sye fixes the Yoke. Then you need to get a new drive shaft that has a slip in it to allow for axle movement. The double cardian joint (also wrongly know as CV joint) allows for a better drive shaft angle, to reduce vibes. The measurement that you have to take is for the custom length drive shaft. The reason why some companies don't make you measure is because they already have a base measurement that might work for your setup. AA is a good kit and seems to be the tried and true. But there and couple out there that allow for shorter yokes and longer drive shafts, like JB conversions and teraflex.

Also with the installation of the SYE and CV drive shaft, you will need to adjust the pinion from parallel to the t-case output to pointing at the output.

The Rubi came stock with a fixed yoke on the Xfer. When you are talking about how much lift height you're going to have to figure out if you need a SYE though, don't include the body lift. Should you get one though? I would if it were mine. Get either the cam bolt kit (the cheap way) or get adjustable uppers so you can get your pinion angle set right or you'll be rebuilding your new driveshaft before you know it.
Time and money, Tony.
Pay to do it right the first time, or you'll pay two or three times THEN pay to do it right.

Well said Froggy!!!!!!!!!

treefrog wrote:

Pay to do it right the first time, or you'll pay two or three times THEN pay to do it right.

I've been living that adage all summer. It costs way less to do it right the first time. :bonk:

its like the saying "spend money to save money". ive seen to many buddies spend way to much fixing stuff they break when they should have done it right the first time. nickles and dimes add up.