Dana 44 steering setup?

Okay guys time for the next question on my future setup.

So I'm going to be installing the Dana 44 front soon in the YJ. The question is do I need to do a high steer setup? I'm leaving it Spring under Axle and I'm pretty sure its not going to need a high steer setup. Thats what I'm thinking anyway because a high steer setup will just get in the way of the flex. I'm also trying to figure how to work my tie rod-drag link setup. So ideas and pictures will help a lot. Thanks guys.

I found a link to someone that has all the parts I need to make my own as a kit. I will have to figure cost differences to see if its worth it and if it will even work.

http://independent4x.com/item.html?UCIDs=839915%7C1218687&PRID=1394920

I have the GM reamer for the one tie rod end and pitman arm if you want to use it.

Well if I need it yes I would love to use it. This stuff is fairly new to me. It makes sense as to how everything should work but double checking here with you guys will help my make sure I have everything to make it work the right way.

I don't know a whole lot about leaf springs but what would the clearence issue be with hi steer.

I would think this way would be best for leaves and I wouldn't think you would have to run a track bar. even though this is sping over it should still work because that is where the tie rod is now


this is called cross over steering and the link that you posted is called inverted T if you want to do any shearches for better pics

Im happy with my setup but it ended up costing a decent amt. There were some cheaper kits out there as far as choices for the flat top knuckle mounts but I liked the poison spyder customs stuff and got everything from them (i got too confused trying to mix and match places). The place you can save some money is on the flat top knuckle mounts but i liked the poison spyder ones. Unfortunately the one knuckle needed to be machined to accept the mount which wasn't cheap. Other than that it was the 2 lengths of tubing and the weld in tie rod inserts. I debated tie rod or heims and ended up choosing tie rod ends since I thought they would last longer. If I streeted it a little less i think i would have went heims. That and combined with the mud i still find my way getting into from time to time. I was concerned with clearance issues turning on mine with the tie rod and drag link but everything squeaked by just fine. There are some adjustability options on the flat top mounts. If i remember correctly poison spyder had detailed views and descriptions. I don't want to look because i'm gonna end up buying rocker knockers or corners. Oh yah...no track bar necessary - or steering stabilizer - or swaybar

either type of steering will work fine for you. nothing will get in the way of flex or anything like that because it all moves with the axle. you can keep the stock sttering, do cross over, or full high steer. any of them will work.

Not running a Spring over axle. I'm thinking that a high steer setup will hit the frame rails when I flex out. But a standard setup should work just trying to figure which is best.

the cross over will work for both soa and sua.

Quote :

I'm thinking that a high steer setup will hit the frame rails when I flex out

you wont have that problem with sua. I don't even have that problem with coils, but I hope to soon, if that makes any sense .

you should shoot for your tie rod and drag link to be parallel in order to run with out a track bar. If you are going to run a track bar then the track bar has to be the same length and parallel to the drag link. But even then the track bar is going to bind. The springs like to go up and down, and not side to side. The track bar will try and force the the springs to the side while the springs are compressing. You can reduce the bind by making the track bar as long as you can and as parallel to the tie rod as you can. With a long track bar it will increase the radius movement and wont push the axle over as much. The catch here is that the track bar still should be the same length as the drag link, so you need to make the drag link longer too. And if you make the track bar parallel with the tie rod, you wouldn't need the track bar because the drag link and the tie rod would be paralell also

Yeah I was talking to Nick about this last year and with his Yj SOA and mine SUA I should do just fine with out the track bar as long as I have sway bar disconnects for when I'm on the street. Nick runs okay without the track bar as long as his sway bar is connected. I think I will put the track bar off cause setting up the sway bar is easy and I wont have to spend the money on building a new track bar

next question is what do you guys think hiem joints or TRE's its mostly trail use rig with the nice day outside or snow on the road driving. I tow it long distance unless the weather sucks then I will street it to PA to wheel. My rig isn't a trailer queen

I edited and wrote all that for nothing. well if people can even understand my jibberish they can use it for their builds, it is the same priciples for coils except less binding and track bar is needed. most of the time

No swaybar for me sir. I also tried the track bar but it was an inferior design trying to make the old work with the new. I suspect a lot to do with it would have been the length of the track bar (if i'm translating matt's jibberish correctly) Actually rich and i talked about it a bit and the length along with the type of mount on the axle were my problems. I think it was nester's rig that had a nice track bar mount (??). Anyway after breaking the track bar off a few times and driving home at 70+ w/o it I figured it wasn't necessary anymore - same with the swaybars. My steering upgrade is up there with the 4:1 and front locker. I'm also going to do the durango steering box upgrade to hold me over till the money tree sprouts out back so i can do the psc hydraulic setup.

Like I said nester i chose the tre's for the reasons in my other post.

When you do the durango box let me know..I picked up a reman a few weeks ago and the part number must of been loaded in the system wrong.. I got it for $85. Even the receipt showed the same number. No one was even close to that price.

Bump. I picked up the Axle from Dave at Full Circle Saturday. I will be working on this in the month to come so I can get it done and back to working on my Toyota.

Okay I'm still looking for the steering hardware I have a couple of ideas. I think I need to borrow the reamer from matt for the pitt man arm but not sure just yet. I'm trying to find a kit that comes with all the parts I need. I will call around in the morning, but if anyone has any info please post. thanks

New plan I'm going springover with highsteer.

what springs are you going to use?

way to come around

rockdw72 wrote:

way to come around

I know thanks for the support. I'm planning on running a stock leaf spring. I will have it double wrapped for strength at the local spring shop. It will take a little bit of time to figure the setup for the spring but I figure I will start with it in stock form with the secondary spring redone for a double wrap and see how it sits and flex. I may end up adding or removing leafs to match the rear which will remain SUA with the BDS 5.5" springs. I may go SOA in the rear later in the year once I figure how I want to address the axle wrap issues that will come with the SOA. More to come in the days ahead I will be ordering parts for getting ready for the swap.

Sorry I missed your call.. I was with some honcho's when you called. I will get with you tommorow.. I gave him the list but havent got a response back.

Plan on selling the old springs? The CJ has 4" springs on there and the front needs to come up another inch or slightly more to level out. Let me know, no hurry though.

Thanks Matt I will wait for your call.

Rockn93YJ wrote:

Plan on selling the old springs? The CJ has 4" springs on there and the front needs to come up another inch or slightly more to level out. Let me know, no hurry though.

We can work something out on a trade since you have stuff I need.

I'm going to post in the wanted section that I need a pair of stock YJ lift springs.

Okay anyone that would like to see how its done can come down to va. I will be setting up the front axle not this weekend but the following. the only thing that I might not have will be the tie rod and drag link. At least the rear end will be reinstalled that weekend and the front axle will be put together for install later that week.

I'm going to be doing the swap in two weeks. Not this weekend but the weekend after big dogs ice breaker. I have all the parts I need. I do have a question about my brakes. Does anyone think that I should upgrade my master cylinder ? I have seen it done on rigs on 1 ton axles but I'm not sure if its needed for a Dana 44 and 8.8 swap.

I would do the swap, then if the peddle feels mushy up grade the MC