Juggy phase 2?

Got a lot of time before the next race, May 2011 and there are things that still need "fixed".
-Suspension still needs a lot of tuning, ride is still a little stiff but before I do that I want to loose a little weight.
-Transfer case sucks with shifting. 203/205 doubler is strong but i don't believe the gears are syncronized. I have to stop, shift the front out of gear, the rear out of gear, the rear into gear, and then the front into gear and then go. swapping to an atlas could eliminate the 2 piece driveshaft up front.
- driveline is too long for the wheelbase. rear driveshaft will bind if the axle is allow to droop fully so I set the limit straps to prevent that.
- steering pump is squealing like a pig and made for a very difficult time driving the last 2 laps and keeping it on the road, might have overheated the fluid and foamed or something, level was good, maybe there was still a little air in the lines.
- passenger rear shock may need rebuild, "jams" while on pavement and makes it difficult to control. my replacement FOA leaked all its oil out into the box it was shipped in.

Forget anything Nick?

Wish list
1. Built LQ9 (485hp), only because I can get a good price and I can trade in the doubler on it. (LT1 in the YJ?)
2. Atlas 2:1 or possibly 4 sp (if they fix the issues they've had with them. (doubler 21" atlas 15" or 12" depending on model)
3. Air bumps!
4. lighter main springs
5. bigger fuel tank(7 minutes to put in 9 gallons sucked), 22 or 32 galtank. could always get the 32 and not fill it so much just in case I go out west.
6. 3 more KRTs, sell the 3 MTRs
7. new steering pump

I'm gonna spend a lot more time with suspension tuning, more power is useless if you can't get it to the ground and control the vehicle.

What kind of pump are you running? If its pse it may of just burned up. They have some new one out that is supposed to hold a little better. Though I wouldn't bet the house on it.

i need a new pump as well!
put my steering system together on the buggy and it turns way too slow (my electric pump turns the wheels faster)....
so i need to check the market out for something........like to know what you decide to get

I've read a lot and there are a lot of mixed feelings on what works and what doesn't. In summary

1. If you buy a PSC pump then don't get the P pump, get the N pump
2. Better yet if going PSC buy the double feed pump.
3 Howe TC pump.

Also some advice from Lou Levy:
"For anyone having steering quickness/overheating/cavitation issues on a complete full hydro system should, at the very least before you buy any more parts:
1. -8= 1/2" return line from orbital to reservior.
2. have cooler that is LPD 1/2" or better (not listed for transmission use only)
3. Not be running ATF for fluid (doesn't take heat well)
4. NO Machined 90* fittings ANYWHERE IN THE SYSTEM
5. All tubular crimped fittings if you need a bend that the hose cannot accomodate....SEE RULE #4
6. keep suction line feed as short as possible ( doesn't need to be 8' above the pump....DAN)
7. use a rigid suction line as you can get ( if the hose is soft, it can flatten from suction and cut off flow)
8. See rules 1-7

BTW.. a -8 return from the orbital w/o a cooler is better than a -6 with a cooler 24/7/365

I learned all this the hard way..... hope to help you guys learn cheaper/faster....."

Everything except brakes. They weren't a deal breaker not having them last race but we could have shaved a lot of time with braking for turns a lot later, or at all lol. The brakes do slightly work but not enough that I felt that I could rely on them. I just kind of counted on the engine braking and letting off sooner which cost a decent bit of time. Was there room for me to do that a lot faster, yes, but I think the added confidence alone will be a huge boost. Confidence = speed. Reminds me of Days of Thunder where Harry tells him that there are special tires on the car. I was thinking this when you got the KRTs too hahahahah.

any ideas for the brakes? I've don't just about everything. All new lines, new calipers, new rotors, new master cyl. only thing not replaced was the booster. Could go with a wilwood setup?

Did you try the residule valve. Booster wouldn't cause that. Which master did you use. You could try using regular chevy calipers in the back.

Installed a 2# residual valve before this race

rockdw72 wrote:

Did you try the residule valve. Booster wouldn't cause that. Which master did you use. You could try using regular chevy calipers in the back.

They are chevy caddy calipers, so I can have the ebrake function.

I know but could not having the ebrake hooked up cause them to open up. I don't know any thing about those calipers so just throw ideas out there. If you want you can use my calipers just to see if they are causing your issue.

Did some searching and found that other then most people saying the caddy brakes sucked there were a few that said that if the ebrake is adjusted properly and used often they are not all that bad. They were all having the same issue as you. If you are getting an atlas might want to switch to a tcase brake.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=580210&highlight=eldorado+caliper

i remember reading about that. Adjustment mentioned in that thread sounds simple, I'll give it a try.

LQ4 has been purchased through Randy and F&S racing(my new sponsors). Motor will have a top end kit(cam, heads, lifters etc) and dyno tuning to get around 485 horsepower. They have to install the motor in order to have a warranty.
Doubler is sold!
LT1 has a possible buyer, thanks for the lead Chris!
Atlas 3 speed has been ordered and is due for deliver around the first of February.
Air bumps are here waiting for install.
Replacement shock is here for the rear one that is sticking.
In the process of finding a better steering pump. PSC says the P pump is good for my use. Then what happened to the one I'm running?
Looking to order 3 more KRTs and get the CJ off jack stands.

Motor install is likely to take place around Feb 1st week.

In the mean time I'm busy building a new bathroom for elva. Room is stripped, new walk in closet is framed, drainage plumbing is installed. Now working on drywall, hot/cold water supply and the shower frame. Getting ready to order some glass block. Nester is coming over to measure for the cabinet work.
busy busy busy.

The CJ just keeps getting better.

Wasn't your suction line really long could that have starved the pump. Some people seam to run 2 regular pumps instead of one turned up one. Check out Derick west build.
Is it getting tuned in the vehicle or out. May want to talk to Jim Lambert about the tune he did. He was talking about things that can be done that are beneficial to what we do but most tuners don't mess with it. His talks about it a little in his build "lazy dog"

The LT1 is sold when it comes out bill

The plan is to do dyno tuning before turning it over to me and Nick to destroy. Thanks Chris! It will be first part of Feb when it comes out.

OK time to update the list to complete before the next race. Lots of drive train changes so I'm hoping to get everything done in time to do more testing and tuning. Nick, please let me know if there is anything I missed.


LQ4 install (being built, due Feb 14. Todd will install the motor, atlas, steering pump) Offering a warranty if he does the install so its a no brainer.
Atlas install (Todd)

Install Atlas cable shifters
Modify driveshafts(shorten and lengthen from atlas swap)
Move tranny shifter forward (make it easier to hit 3rd gear)
Replace steering pump(Howe TC? pump?
Steering pressure cap? - saw Lucas Murphy is switching to a pressurized system, makes good sense.
Adjust rear calipers and check brake function
Install Air Bumps
Front Springs are currently(250/150) -drop to 225-18" main
Rear springs are currently(250/125) - drop to 225-18" main
Rebuild pass rear coilover & oil replacement
Move lower links (lower than front driveshaft because when I drop off a ledge the driveshaft is the first to hit, not the lower links)
Replace steering U-joint
Install Steering cooler with fan
Install Front suck down winch
Replace broken Winch Hook with safety clip
Respool winch
Mount Hi Lift jack
Install (truck stop) mirrors
tool storage
D-Rings and Mounts f&r
Fan shroud
Lights-tail lights, headlights
Parking brake
Air Intake into cab?

Order
Atlas 4sp(delivery around Feb 1)
Atlas Cable shifters
TH400-Atlas adaptor (AS-6401)
3 more KRTs
32 gal fuel tank with sender
Steering cooler with fan
High flow gas cans?
Matt new temp gauge! (I haven't forgotten, just need to find out exactly which one you need)
New Trailer axles (5200#)

Info:
Marty @ Blue Coil (574-546-2870)
16 gal - 26 x 18 x9.5
22 gal - 25 3/4 x 17 1/4 x 14 1/2
32 gal - 26 5/8 x 18 5/8 x 18 5/8

Tranny temp gauge.

Matt, where do those sideview mirrors come from?

mirrors are from http://www.liquidironindustries.com/

what is a steering pressure cap?

Thanks.


Lucas Murphy:
https://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/photo.php?fbid=492474354526&set=a.167807054526.117609.131491499526&theater

Was reading somewhere about a presurized system for the steering hydraulics. the theory is similar to shocks and other hudraulics. pressure in the system will help prevent or minimize the formation of bubbles in the system and keep it from foaming.

Found it. Lucas posted a picture on his facebook page and spoke about it being a new product from Howe Performance. 7psi pressurized steering resevoir.
"That is the pressure relief. Just like a radiator. When the system pressure goes above the cutoff pressure it will relieve out that fitting. The system is pressurized to reduce aeration and pump cavitation."

Ordered 3 KRTs today.