Phase 2 Mud sucks, I'm going racing!

Moved the tranny cooler off the radiator and mounted a 10" fan onto it.
Installed an air/fuel ratio gauge. Currently reads 12.5 which is on the rich side. Plan on leaning it out to about 14.

Plan to correct this overheating problem:

Water pump replacement(30% increase in flow)
Oil cooler with fan install
Fill with Distilled H2O & Water wetter
180 thermostat( with relief holes)
Radiator cap increase from 16# to 21#
Adjust air/fuel mixture
Move transmission cooler off radiator. DONE with own fan now.

Juggy is almost ready to race. Damn Canton Racing Products sent me their engine oil cooler sandwich adapter which did not work with my motor. It was specifically designed for the Gen V and Gen VI motor but the design does not work. Started the motor and spilled a half quart of oil on the ground. the center of their adapter is raised and prevents the outer edge of the adapter to seal. Sending it back and ordered the Derale adaptor(spins on and looks like a better design). Only thing left to do is replace the adapter and bleed the brakes.

OK all changes have been been made and went to race practice. Ran much cooler at idle and for a moment thought I had this thing licked. Soon as we got on the track and started doing some faster laps the gauge went up to 230-240 and with heavy acceleration was pegged at 250 and boiled over. Must be an internal problem with the motor. Heat sensor readings at the pipes going into the radiator showed 220 going into the radiator and 170 coming out at idle. With a little throttle to speed up the water pump the readings changed to 200 going in and 150 coming out.
Next step to fix this problem is to squeeze one more race out of this motor and swap in the LT1 between the 2nd and 3rd race. If there is room I'm going to put the radiator back up front.

This build is done. suspension worked great! just needs a few more tweaks. Happy with the outcome and learned a LOT with this build. Things to do different include making the rear links longer since I can't use the full shock travel since the drive shaft is too short and binds before the full droop is reached. Should have run an atlas and that would have increased driveshaft length by 10" or so. should have started from scratch instead of using the CJ frame and plating it. Took way too much time and way heavier than it needs to be. Should have made the drivers compartment longer so it doesn't feel like I'm driving the Focus. should have made room for the radiator up front. should have made more room for uptravel so I could lower the vehicle farther if I needed to. Along with that I should have made the ride height lower by about 3" for better center of gravity. Should have started with the LT1 from the beginning and dumped the big block from the start. list goes on but I'll save that for campfire talk. Thanks again to all that helped with the deconstruction and building process. Special thanks to Chris, chuck, Rob and Matt for all the last minute help getting the rig ready to race!

So are you going to keep trying to run this thing or are you going to cut it up and start over again to fix the above problems?

YES

Plan is to run the 454 this next race and only go as fast as we need to just so we can complete the race. Then swap in the LT1 between the 2nd and 3rd race if the planets align just the right way. There are a few more things I want to do like run a true exhaust behind the cab, install lights, make provisions for storing tools and probably lower it by about 3". I would love to run the KOH qualifier at Rausch next year. We'll see what the winter brings.

Not sure if you are still loosing brake pedal, but i saw this so i thought i would post it


Disc Brake Swap and Residual Valves.

i got 2psi on disc , 10 psi are for drums (they have return springs)
its to keep the pads close to the disc ,if you put a 10psi it will cause brake drag.
if you dont use any , you will have to pump your pedal to regain the loose on
the calipers .