Phase 2 Mud sucks, I'm going racing!

Doubler has been assembled. found a broken bolt in the th400 to 203 adaptor that i'm strugging to remove.
Slideshow of doubler assembly.

doubler assembly slideshow

Doubler is complete. Below is the 203 shifter and twin stick 205 shifters. next work day I can install the transmission and torque converter. Next the TH400-203 adaptor gets bolted to the transmission, then teh 203 gets bolted to that, then the 205 gets bolted to that. Then assemble the shifters again.

SWEET

question about mounting. Plan is to use the 2 bolt holes in the adaptor between the tranny and 203 for front mounting and use the two holes in the 203 to 205 adaptor for the rear mounting. This would leave the 205 hanging off the adaptor mount. I was planning on using a rubber bump stop under the 205 to support it's weight and to help prevent it breaking off on jumps etc. I did notice the 3 bolts on the side of the 205 in the picture above and wonder if they were part of the original mounting system and if they should be implemented into the current mounting system. I understand that the drivetrain has to have room to absorb rotation from the torque of the motor and if hard mounted it could crack the tranny housing. leave it alone or implement into mounting system? Ideas?

Alot of people make a solid mount to tie the t-cases together then mount it on bushings at the frame

MonsterS10 wrote:

Alot of people make a solid mount to tie the t-cases together then mount it on bushings at the frame

That is exactly what i was thinking but then started reading into the pirate threads where people were advised not to do it that way. Reason being if it doesn't allow the drivetrain to rotate under torsion of the motor and the motor does then it could crack the tranny housing. My thought was if the motor is tied into the frame with a certain bushing I should be able to use the same kind of busing at the same mounting width as the motor and call it good.

If you used leaf spring bushings on the motor mounts & the cross member i don't see it being a issue but some mounts do rock pretty bad when torqued the cage should have the frame pretty solid its tied to the front of the jeep right

frame will be very solid with all the tie ins.

Front axle ARB was repaired, busted copper tube and bad o-ring seals. Now front axle is fully assembled. Transmission is installed but needs to come back out. Flex plate for the 700R4 had 3 holes egged out, wasn't a problem because the torque converter only used 3 of the 6 holes. Now with the TH400 and new torque converter uses 6 bolts and the bolt pattern is bigger, 11.5" i believe. Now shopping for a new flex plate. Got an idea of where the driveline will be, shifters will line up nicely with the 3" extension. This weekend I will put the doubler in and get the axles where I want them and find out where the driveshafts will be. then i can mock up the links with the PVC tubing I bought to match the johnny joints. Still got to box in the frame some more and start bending tube.

new flexplate backordered until 2/10/2010 so looks like I'm going to install everything anyway and have to take it apart again. No biggie, at least i can contiue to make progress.

man that trans was a heavy SOB. do you already have mounts for the links or are you going to make them on your own? I can bring my grinders out with me tomorrow so I don't slow you up. What time do you want to start?

As far as mounts go I will likely make my own. More grinders are better. I'll be getting started around 10:30.

why does it seem like i get a lot done but don't make much progress? I installed the tranny and doubler, supported on jackstands to determine where the rear crossmember needs to go. Built a rear cross member and tied it into the frame and into the cage rear seat mount bar. had to chop the frame some more and the body some more. Removed some old suspension hardware. Found that i have a LOT of room to move the motor/tranny/doubler up. So today I build new motor mounts and raise the engine about 5" or so. Then I'll get the front axle positioned in front and start on the front crossmember and link/driveshaft mock up. I might need a 2 piece front driveshaft so if anyone has info on that it would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

That should give you a idea for your 2 piece drive shaft.

spent a lot of time removing the old motor mounts, spring mounts, shock mounts and boxing in the frame in front. Got the driveline elevated quite a bit but still needs some repositioning. Again worked all day but didn't seem like i got much done.

it one of those things that once you get into the simple things that you thought would only take a few hours, then turns into a few days making it feel like your not accomplishing any thing.

Next up.
1. Position motor and drivetrain
2. Build motor mounts.
3. build Doubler mount/crossmember.
4. Position axles and mock up link suspension front and rear with PVC and driveshafts positioned.
5. Build link mounts, order links, build axle truss front and rear.
6. Remove tranny and doubler to replace flexplate.
7. while tranny and doubler are out I'll finish boxing the frame.

You did make alot of progress yesterday. Its starting to take shape cause your cleaning it all up.

you are making a ton of progress. stoke

1. Position motor and drivetrain. DONE
2. Build motor mounts. DONE
2.5 Box in frame. DONE ( took a lot longer than expected.)
2.6 Assemble Doubler.
3. build Doubler mount/crossmember.
4. Position axles and mock up link suspension front and rear with PVC and driveshafts positioned.
5. Build link mounts, order links, build axle truss front and rear.
6. Remove tranny and doubler to replace flexplate DONE

sale on boggers and rims pending. swapping for 17" Walker Evans beadlocks with 40" MTR's

I like that ranger.

sweet, those tires look like they would do great all around

Now thats a good deal!!!!