Phase 2 Mud sucks, I'm going racing!

So is it wheeling or wrenching this weekend? I'm down for either as long as we have beer.

Still some busy work to do. I have a few hours tues and thurs to see if i can finish it. Most likely I'll be wrenching saturday and wheeling sunday. I think the new negative cable will fix it, elminates the grounding straps.

yeah cause thats a big voltage drop it should only see a 4 volt drop not 8

88blazeron40s wrote:

yeah cause thats a big voltage drop it should only see a 4 volt drop not 8

bought some 2 gauge wire today. Gonna run it straight from the battery to the block where the grounding strap hooks on(after I clean it off real good). I'll test voltage again while trying to start and see what happens.

oh ok good deal that should help out

bill I would of just ran a set of jumper cables to it first to see if it would of started better. Hope everything works out for ya.

md4wheelin wrote:

bill I would of just ran a set of jumper cables to it first to see if it would of started better. Hope everything works out for ya.

Thought about that yesterday but my cables are in the trailer box which is at my brother in laws house. He busted the tranny in his early nova at the drag strip.

Got a new battery and cranked easily! Wasn't getting power to the distributer so I ran a new wire. Turned the key and finally got the jeep started! ran GREAT...for about 8 seconds. Then it sounded like someone jammed a spear in my fan. Problem is that the fan is in the rear. Don't know what it was but it sounded catastrophic and now it won't start. Bad, very bad.

THAT SUCKS BIG BUTT .....would't it have to be a fuse if the fan in the back killed the engine?

thinga'ma'rig wrote:

THAT SUCKS BIG BUTT .....would't it have to be a fuse if the fan in the back killed the engine?

sorry for the confusion Von. It "sounded" like someone jamming a spear in the fan, but the noise came from the front and my fan is in back. Fan works fine. this is very likely an internal engine problem.

Big block chevys are known for wiping out camshafts on dry starts or check the rag in carb or metal filings since its been having all the fab work done around it . You have that lt1 just sitting there you'll have to redo motor mounts though

Odd thing is that it ran great for about 8 seconds, idled nice. then i gave it a little gas and thats when it gave that noise. It sounded like sheet metal being smashed and shreaded. How do I check for the camshaft lobe damage without removing it?

did you pull the wires first and crank it a few times to get the oil flowing or did you just fire it? On most my motors that have sat for a while we'll kick them over a few times so we don't blow them up from them starting with no oil. Ive learned this the hard way twice. Look at this way, maybe its a sign to swap in that ls1.

Unfortunately we struggled with trying to get it started for so long that oiling concern fell to the wayside. I've already been considering the LT1. Supposed to bolt right up to the TH400 but I'm not sure about the torque converter and flywheel requirements. Saturday we'll do some testing and see if we can fiigure out whats wrong. Guessing checking simple things first like compression, spark, timing etc and if we can't find it then keep tearing down until we find something. It wasn't an instant kill when the noise happened. Its like a few seconds maybe 3 or 4 of noise before I shut it down.

drain the oil out and see if there is any chunks of anything coming out if not then its in the top end and we can just pull the heads off and check the valves and cam from there

ok, think I'll start easy though and do a compression test tonight.

If you pull the valve covers check for a really loose rocker arm , then check that valve to see if its hangign up most likely the bottom end should fine sounds like a valve issue or bent pushrod something stupid

Compression is between 150-180 throughout. i've got spark when I put a plug on the bare frame with the plug wire attached and cranking. valve covers removed and all rockers move a decent amount. it is getting fuel cause while cranking to check spark it was blowing fuel past my head, thought that it was not a good idea to have the fuel pump running. fuel presure is about 6 psi. baffled. put a new distributer in too. i don't get it. something shredded up inside, don't know what. next I'll pull the oil pan heads, motor who knows. Maybe i'll wait til saturday and get a second set of eyes on it.

https://s1003.photobucket.com/albums/af152/rockn93yj2/?action=view&current=MVI_0561.mp4

looks like its ready to go!!!

sweet

Heads up

We ran into a problem at the RC KOH qualifier two years ago at tech. They told us the exhaust had to exit behind the drivers compartment. BUT Clayton Off Road got an exception with his Super Trap muffler. So check the rules just to be safe.

Hunt wrote:

Heads up

We ran into a problem at the RC KOH qualifier two years ago at tech. They told us the exhaust had to exit behind the drivers compartment. BUT Clayton Off Road got an exception with his Super Trap muffler. So check the rules just to be safe.

Thanks, I was worried about that but didn't see anything in the RCRocs series. Plan is to swap motors this winter so I'll make sure I put the exhaust behind me then.

ARB pump (DONE), lines and controls DONE
Vent baffles all fluids (DONE) except rear axle, need vent
Body panels DONE (for now)
Oil pan skid DONE
Weld rear axle tube to center section DONE
Vehicle No Start - need new battery cable to ground DONE runs great
Finish ARB wiring and controls DONE
Install winch rope DONE
bell housing cover-needs bolts DONE

Axle winch?
Switch for ARB power
Grease Johnny Joints
Tighten Link nuts
lug nuts
set timing
install second fire extinguisher
first aid kit mount

Paint tub
fix trailer
vehicle numbers.